Jackson and Levine x Habitat

Last week I got invited along to the launch party for Jackson and Levine's new ceramic collection with Habitat. The launch took place at rustic Italian restaurant Campania and Jones, which is tucked away in the cobbled back streets of Columbia Road. The event had a street party theme and featured many an Aperol Spritz, a delicious buffet of Italian food and we were serenaded from the rooftops by two lovely opera singers. It was also a lovely opportunity to catch up with blogging pals Nancy, Kristabel and Ghenet. 

The duo famous for their supper clubs and recipe book had previously collaborated with Habitat on a range of linen and this time they are back with a covetable range of handmade ceramics. This gorgeous collection of bold pieces, which features colour blocking, splatter patterns and figurative designs, sold out just three hours after launching on the site. To be honest I’m not surprised; this collection combines incredible quality at an affordable price with some truly gorgeous designs. Every piece is hand made in Italy and therefore each one is unique. Personally I love pairing red and pink together so the Gia jug appeals to me. I also love pairing complimentary colours, so I enjoyed the green and pink utensil pot, and the purple and yellow splatter dishes. I'm currently a bit obsessed with how principles of colour theory should guide us on what we wear and what items we bring into our homes, so this collection is right up my street. Habitat have promised they will be restocking some items, so keep an eye on the website or email them to register interest in specific items.

A Little Guide to Sóller, Mallorca

My husband and I love a European city break, but I've realised in the rush to do and see as much as you can in three or four days it's not always that relaxing. We decided to book a springtime European getaway with a focus on slowing down and relaxing. Ideally we wanted somewhere beautiful and rural, but neither my husband or I drive which poses a bit of a problem. Sóller in Mallorca was the perfect solution, as this small town is surrounded by stunning countryside, yet it’s easily accessible by bus and train.

Sóller

We flew into Palma and then got the antique train through the mountains straight to Sóller. I had read reviews on Trip Advisor urging me to get there early and be prepared to fight for a seat. As we were travelling out of season and mid week there was no queue at all and our carriage was almost empty. The beautiful antique train takes a scenic route through the mountains, passing olive groves and fields of sheep. A single ticket is €18, so it’s not cheap but it’s a beautiful journey. It’s also worth checking out the train station in Sóller, which includes a free permanent collection of works by Miro and Picasso. Possibly the most cultural train station I’ve ever been to.

Sóller is a gorgeous little town, fairly untouched by modernisation. The main shopping street is still full of independent boutiques, butchers, greengrocers and many, many ice cream shops. The main plaza is particularly picturesque as it features a huge church, orange trees, outdoor restaurants and cafes and an antique tram which winding through it all. The antique tram runs regularly between Sóller town and Port de Sóller carrying waving tourists. We stayed in a hotel in the centre of town then walked and cycled in the surrounding areas. Our favourite restaurant was Bar Molino, a family run place on the edge of own.  It doesn't look like much but it is the place to find authentic flavours, friendly service and big portions.

On our second day we hired bikes and planned to cycle to Port de Sóller via the scenic route. The scenic road actually involved cycling up a mountain. We zig-zagged up the mountain for over an hour, at every corner hoping we were at the top, and when we finally made it to way we thought was the top my husband got a massive puncture and we had to walk the bikes all the way down the mountain to the bike shop. You’ve got to laugh. The tire was replaced and we decided just to take the main road and cycled to the port in less than 10 minutes. We had a lovely lunch on the sea front, I did some painting and we explored the area on our bikes. 

Ecovinyassa

I developed a bit of an obsession with oranges whilst in Sóller: I probably drank about a gallon of freshly squeezed orange juice and came home with a memory card full of pictures of orange trees. To fuel this obsession further we paid a visit to Ecovinyassa, an organic orange farm in the Sóller valley that offers tours. We spent an hour wandering around the orange groves and learning about different varieties of oranges and organic farming methods, and just generally taking in the beauty and tranquillity of the scenery. The tour finishes with a jug of orange juice and a snack of bread with fresh tomatoes.

Fornalutx

There are lots of beautiful walks in the surrounding area. Our hotel gave us a map of hiking trails, and we did a few of the shorter ones, walking to Biniraix and Fornalutx. The walk to Fornalutx via Binibasi is particularly lovely. The scenery is so magical, I'm not sure that photos really do it justice. There are miles of orange and lemon trees in every direction, remote stone villages dotted along the mountains, wildflowers growing along the edge of every road and blue mountains rising in the distance, with a delicious smell of orange blossom, jasmine and woodsmoke everywhere you go.

Deia

Another day we decided to get the bus to Deia. The timetable said it would only take 25 minutes, but it took more like 40 as it wound its way through the mountains, slowing to a crawl every time we passed another car. There were a few hair raising moments as we squeezed past another bus along a cliff edge. Deia is a mysterious, quiet town, once home to the writer  Robert Graves, and the setting for the BBC drama The Night Manager. The bus dropped us in the town and then we decided to walk down to the sea, which as it turns out is quite a challenging 30 minute walk following the path of the river until it meets the sea. I don't mind clambering over styles or small streams, but it's something to bear in mind if you're planning at visit. We had a drink in a picturesque restaurant jutting right out into the sea (it was used in The Night Manager). It was the most expensive orange juice I'd had all week but it was worth it for the breathtaking views. We sat and watched braver folk than us swim in the crystal clear turquoise waters. 

The Can Prunera

On our last day the weather was a little cooler so we explored Soller town a bit more in the morning. We visited the Can Prunera, a stunning art nouveau townhouse that is home to a collection of modern art. The rooms are beautiful, and the way the furniture and artefacts are arranged you feel like the owners have just stepped out for a minute. It’s easy to imagine these elegant people of the Fin de Siecle catching the wooden tram down to the port, or strolling in the main Plaza.

Mallorca is such a gem of an island, and so much more than just a party destination or somewhere for a bit of sun and sand. I feel like we have only just scratched the surface of the wonders that Mallorca has to offer, and we are keen to go back. I would recomend it to anyone; pack a book and some comfy walking shoes and prepare to relax. 

A very short film of my time in Mallorca. Music Mysteries by Dan Lebowitz

How to Sketch While You Travel

Is there anything more relaxing than sitting painting in the sunshine whilst on holiday? However it’s so easy to pack your paints and sketchbook in your suitcase and then leave them there all week! I’m definitely guilty of taking my art materials on holiday, but never actually using them. When you are on holiday and you’ve got a limited amount of time to do and see things it can be difficult to make time to sketch. Here are my top tips for making it happen.

Preparation

Paint
Think carefully about the materials you are bringing. You want to choose things that are compact and lightweight. At home I use a Schmincke Horadam Watercolour Set that comes in a metal tin, however this is very heavy, so on holiday I take this Winsor & Newton Watercolour Set which comes in a light plastic palette with lots of mixing space. It's the perfect paint palette for travelling with.

This was my first time travelling with gouache. I had just bought a set of Holbein Artists Gouache, which come in tiny 5 mL tubes. These teeny tiny tubes are perfect for travelling as they take up no space at all.

Brushes
Water brushes, brushes that contain water in the handle, are ideal for painting on the go. I also like to bring small travel brushes with me. The set of Winsor and Newton watercolours I linked to above comes with a size 5 brush with a short handle so it fits perfectly inside the palette. You can get travel watercolour brushes with detachable or retractable handles that keep the bristles intact whilst travelling.

Sketchbook
I might be completely biased, but I love my sketchbooks from Papier. Yes, they might have my illustrations on the front, but the paper inside is great for pencil sketching, gouache and watercolours. The sketchbook is paperback and staple bound so it opens up completely flat and is very light to pack. The pages are thick enough that you can paint on both side.

Pencils
If you are packing traditional pencils make sure you bring a pencil sharpener, and if you are taking a mechanical pencil make sure you bring some spare leads. I bought my Blackwing pencil with me which has a great rubber on the end.

Pencil case
I used a make up bag as a giant pencil case which I could fit my sketchbook, paint set, brushes and pencils into. Having everything all in one bag made it easy to keep everything together.

Choose your Colour Palette
It’s a good idea to pick a colour palette before you go as it will allow you to limit the amount of art supplies you need to bring. Some people might say that you never know what will inspire you, and therefore what colours you will need, but realistically knowing that I was going somewhere with stone houses with green shutters and lots of orange groves that I would need a good green, orange and stone colour.  Think about the place that you are going and the colours you are most likely to use. For example if I was going to Japan during cherry blossom season I would want to take some great pinks with me. If you are bringing watercolours you will probably just bring the whole set, this applies more to tubes of gouache, colour pencils or felt tip pens. On my holiday I brought five tubes of gouache - white, raw umber, permanent yellow, permanent green and flame red. I also took a set of watercolours.

Top tip -

If you are short of space you can just take a set of watercolours and a tube of white gouache. You can mix the pigment from the watercolours with the white on the palette to make gouache of different colours. 

Make it Happen
 

Make Time
Doing a sketch or painting takes a bit of time, it’s not like taking a quick photo. Plan times when you are likely to be able to do some painting and take your sketchbook out with you. I found that waiting for my food to arrive in a restaurant was a great time to sketch, as we were always eating outside in picturesque locations.

Compromise
One of the tricky parts of painting on holiday is compromising the people you are travelling with. Explain to your travel partner that you want to do some painting and suggest that they have a go sketching as well, or bring a book to read. On holiday I did lots of painting and my husband read. 

Edit
Don’t feel like you have to paint everything you see in front of you. If you are inspired by one small detail of what you can see, like a particular person, a beautiful tree, or a cute dog it is fine to just paint that one thing. It’s also fine if you don’t finish your painting or sketch in one sitting. Take photos of the scene and use them, plus your memory, to finish it later.

Save it for Later
If there is something you want to paint and you don’t have time grab a sneaky photo and paint it later. I always like to do some holiday paintings in my sketchbook when I get home whilst it is all still fresh in my mind.

Enjoy the Moment
Don’t worry about creating a masterpiece or a beautiful sketchbook. Painting on holiday is about the experience, not just the end result. Painting while travelling is a great way to force yourself to slow down and really take in your surroundings. Enjoy the moment and don’t worry too much about the outcome.

I hope those tips have inspired you to get painting on your next holiday. Let me know if you have any questions. Here are some great blog posts about sketching while traveling from my friends Jackie and Viktorija.

More from my trip to Mallorca coming up soon!

Godiva x Emma Block Illustration

When Godiva  got in touch with me and asked if I would like to design an Emma Block Illustration Easter Egg with them how could I say no? Chocolate and illustration is bit of a dream combination. I was invited along with five other creative influencers, Sophie Tea, Gizzi Erskine, Rosie Fortescue, Henry Holland and Candice Brown (Bake Off winner) to transform a beautiful Godiva milk chocolate egg (honestly I was a bit starstruck). The evening started with an introduction to chocolate tasting and tempering from the Godiva chocolatiers, then we set to work personalising our eggs.

I had decided to go for a Easter bonnet design and I had requested sugar paste so that I could hand make 3-D flowers. I started by carefully rolling out a white sugar paste and cutting out the silhouette of the woman’s head before hand painting the face with food dye. I made the hat out of a oval piece of sugar paste covered with gold leaf, which I attached with edible glue. I then started to make the sugar paste flowers by hand, petal by petal. I used food colouring and brush to add depth to some of the flowers and I added touches of gold leaf. The chocolatiers from Godiva helped me place each one, carefully attaching it with melted chocolate.

If you had over to the Godiva Facebook page you have the chance to win one of these beautiful chocolate eggs. Godiva has just launched an exclusive new spring collection at Sainsbury’s.

This is a sponsored post and I was paid for my participation in this event. 

Own Your Story with Kikki.K

Back in January I had a day of filming with a stationery brand that I really love. Kikki K have just launched a new collection called Own Your Story, and they gave me the opportunity to share a bit more of my story with you. We spent a whole day filming in my local area of North London, and we managed to get some really lovely shots despite the terrible weather. It was so nice to film and the area of london I grew up in, and live in now. The team were a total joy to work with, and 8 hours of filming flew by. I think my followers are very familiar with my work, but maybe not to familiar with my story, so it was nice to share a bit more about my self.

2017 in Review

It’s that time again, the year in review blog post! I’m terrible at remembering what I’ve done in a year, and tend to think I haven’t done much of anything, which is why I’ve got my diary out so I can go through the year month by month and remind myself of all the exciting stuff that’s happened. My hopes for 2017 were to grow my business in bold new directions (hello book deal!) but also to achieve more work-life balance and spend more social time with my husband and friends. I’m very happy to say I think I’ve done it!

January

My year started off with some pretty exciting work as I traveled to Berlin in January to live illustrate for SisterMAG. In January I started hosting my own watercolour and brush lettering workshops at West Elm. Until then I had been running workshops for soemmmebody else, and taking sole responsibility for teaching, promoting and running workshops was a little bit scary. I kept having dreams that I hadn't sold any tickets or that I turned up without any materials. I’m happy to say neither of those things happen and I have now taught a whole year of sell-out workshops at West Elm. I’m very excited to be adding some new workshops to my repertoire next year, including my gouache workshop which has already been very popular. I worked on a couple of book covers in January and provided illustrations for the Mollie Makes Creativity magazine. My husband and I also booked tickets to Peru!

February

This was the month but I got my book deal! At the end of 2016 my amazing agent sent out my book proposal to a few different publishers, and by February I had an offer! I read the email on my phone walking back from a Pilates class and when I met my husband for coffee I started crying out of shock and happiness. This month I taught a couple of brush lettering workshops with Etsy, which was really exciting as I wanted to work with them for a long time. I also did some illustrations for the Betty Collective website.

March

In March I went up to the north Norfolk coast to visit my aunt and uncle. One of my goals for 2017 was to take more time off, and visiting family who happened to live in a beautiful part of the country was a great way of doing that. That month I also did some live illustration with Dermalogica in Selfridge’s, and Viktorija and I hosted a second London Drawing Club event at the beautiful Barbican conservatory. I also illustrated some very popular postcards for Mollie Makes and illustrated a lovely article for Stylist Magazine.

April

In April we celebrated my grandparents 60th wedding anniversary, and the day afterwards my own wedding was featured on Love My Dress. I had a super busy month of workshops, trying to squeeze in as many as possible before my trip to Peru. I also did some live illustration with Reiss at Brent Cross shopping Centre. I also made time to see the amazing Hockney exhibition with Viktorija.

May

I spent most of May travelling.  I had a quick trip back to Suffolk to see my parents at the beginning of the month, and then I was home for one night before heading off with Nancy to a trip to Somerset with Joules, and then three days later I was heading off to Peru. Our time in Peru was absolutely amazing, and you can read more about it here. It was such an incredible trip and a great way to celebrate our first wedding anniversary.

June

In June I taught a really lovely watercolour workshop for Pinterest as part of their interior design awards, at the beautiful Bourne and Hollingsworth Building. I also taught a very special watercolour workshop with Oasis that took place in London Zoo. I got to chat to the zoo keepers and feed two pygmy hippos, which made it one of my top workshops ever. June was also the month that I initiated my Monday afternoon dates with my husband. He is a jazz musician so mostly works evenings and weekends, which means we need to be organised about spending quality time together and not just working all the time. He rarely works on Monday, so we decided that was the best day to take an afternoon off and do something fun together. In the last year our Monday afternoon dates have included trips to the cinema, exhibitions, lunches out, walks in national parks, vintage shopping and we've explored lots of new neighbourhoods in North London.

June is the month that I really started writing my book properly. The last few months I had been waiting to get the contract sorted, and I didn’t want to start actually writing it until everything was signed, although I had been researching and planning it in my head. It was so exciting to actually sit down and start writing my book! For me the challenge was finishing up all my other projects and saying no to new work to give myself the time I needed to do it.

July

I spent most of this month writing my book and enjoying the heat wave in London; going to barbecues, street fairs and summer parties. I also had the chance to go to a really lovely bloggers event in Somerset, which was such a lovely break away from the city and work. I had to hand in the first half of my manuscript on the first of August, which meant the last few weeks of July were very busy getting things finished and organising hundreds of images and pages and pages of writing.

August

August was all about writing my book, and I only taught one workshop all month to make sure I had plenty of time to focus on it. People always say how difficult it is to write a book but I actually really loved it. It was so nice to just work on one creative project continuously for three months, and not have to deal with contracts, negotiations invoices and everything else that comes with being freelancer. I also managed to enjoy the sunshine in London a bit and visited Columbia Road flower market with friends. I also worked on some content with Pink Lady Apples.

September

In September I had to hand in the second half of my book. This time I was much more organised, having named all the files correctly as I went along and kept the manuscript in better order. It turns out writing a book in order from start to finish makes life a lot easier than writing it in any old order you feel like! In September I also taught my first ever Instagram workshop which completely sold out and was a big success. I’m teaching another one in February.

October

In October my husband and I headed off to Lisbon as a post-book writing treat. Whilst I might have finished writing the manuscript and painting all the illustrations, there was still edits and changes to make, which I worked on during October. Fortunately the edits to the book were very light and not much needed to be changed. In this month I also personalised notebooks with brush lettering for Papier at Brides the Show, and did some live illustration at Harrods. I also had an interview and photoshoot with Moo in my flat, which was really exciting as Moo were one of my very first clients, read the interview here. I also worked with my friend Kathryn on the branding for her new company Wander for a While. I also developed some new products for my shop including note books and new Christmas designs.

November

November was a bit of a funny month. I had so many hospital appointments and social engagements that I felt a bit all over the place. The hospital appointments were for my wrist (for my ongoing RSI) and for my troublesome tooth. Fortunately both seem to have settled down for the moment. I also spent a lot of time preparing for an onslaught of festive workshops in December and sent out lots of Christmas Etsy orders. I also worked on some lovely magazine illustrations that I can't show you yet and some branding for The Market Beautiful. I also got to attend Weekend:IN again, this time in East London.

December

In December I taught lots of Christmas bauble painting and lettering workshops with clients including Topshop, Battersea Power Station and Seven dials. I also finalised the cover of my book with my publishers and got to see a first proof copy of my book. It was so exciting to see all those months of work come together into 250 beautifully designed pages.

So that was my year. I achieved my main goal of getting a book deal and writing a book, I also managed to travel and spend lots of time with friends. I think there’s a bit of a myth that as a creative freelancer you have to be badly paid, working constantly with no social life, and definitely no exercise routine, and it’s just not true. This year has been all about saying yes to exciting opportunities, no to the projects that aren’t right for me and learning to look after myself.

I’ve got some pretty big goals for next year, which include travelling more and hopefully writing more books. I’m so excited to see my first book come out this August, and I can’t wait to share it with you. Thank you so much to everyone who has come to my workshops, bought something from my shop or just followed me on Instagram, Your support means so much to me.

A Little Guide to Lisbon

Lisbon has always been on my must visit list, so when I decided book a mini break as a treat for finishing writing my first book it was an obvious choice. I couldn’t wait to explore the cobbled streets and colourful alleyways of Lisbon. We went at the beginning of October, and were expecting pleasantly warm weather, what we actually got was a heat wave with highs of 32°. Perfect weather for wafting about in a sundress, drinking beer and eating ice cream, although it did make the steep hills and hundreds of steps in Lisbon a bit of a challenge.

Santos and Bario Alto

We stayed in an airbnb in the historic Santos neighbourhood, on the charming Rua da Esperanca, which translates as Hope Street. It was a quiet and pretty neighbourhood, and an easy walk into the busier neighbourhoods of Barrio Alto. We arrived just before three in the afternoon, so we had plenty of time to explore our first day. One of our favourite local finds was  Mercearia da Milla, which is a lovely delicatessen selling great coffee, pastries, salads and sandwiches. After grabbing a coffee we made our way into town for a wander and a chance to get our bearings. For dinner we popped into the Time Out Market, which everyone raved about. Unfortunately it just wasn’t for us. The food looked great, but having to bring your food on a plastic tray to a vast communal table in hope of finding a seat somewhere near your partner as well as having to shout to each other among the crowds of people just wasn’t our kind of thing. I’ve realised that any restaurant described as having a 'buzzing atmosphere' just isn’t for me. I picked up an incredibly tasty custard tart at Manteigaria, the first of many, to eat on the go. It was warm, flakey, fragrent and slightly gooey; the best. We found a little family run restaurant in a quiet alleyway near where we were staying and had an excellent, and very affordable dinner there instead.

Alfama, the flea market and the tram

The Museum of Antique Art was just around the corner of where we were staying, so of course I dragged my husband there on our first morning. The museum is a real mixture from mediaeval art work to the home furnishings of the Portuguese royal family. One of the most memorable exhibits in the museum was a triptych by Hieronymus Bosch. It was my first time seeing a Bosch in the flesh, and we must’ve spent about 20 minutes just staring at it. After a few hours in the museum we decided to go to the flea market in Alfama, which is pretty much the opposite side of Lisbon. We made our way there slowly throughout the day, with lots of stops for iced coffee, beer, ice cream and a chance to take in the beautiful views. Santini in Chiado was our favourite spot for ice cream. Our route took us through the Praça do Comércio, a large plaza that looks out onto the river Tagus. From there we made our way into Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood in the city which is beautifully higgledy-piggledy and colourful. After walking up what seemed like hundreds of steps we made our way to a mirador (view point) where we enjoyed an iced coffee and a stunning panoramic view of Lisbon and the Tagus. After that we continued towards the flea market via George castle and the church. The flea market itself is vast, and I would describe it as containing everything you could possibly imagine, but don’t actually want to buy. Everything from rusty nails and vintage matchboxes to cheap shampoo and tourist postcards. It’s great fun to wander round and have a look. After that we decided to get the historic Tram 28 back, as we couldn’t face walking all that way in the scorching sun. Tram 28 is a traditional wooden tram from the 1930s and it’s a great way to see the city

Fado

We had dinner at the same place as before, partly because I had left my scarf there and partly because it was really good. After that we made I way to Barrio Alto to hear some Fado. Fado is to Portugal as Flamenco is to Spain. It is a haunting and melancholy music. There are many Fado bars in Barrio Alto and Alfama, and they get very busy in the evening.
 

Cascais

We debated going to both Cascais and the castle district of Sintra in the same day and getting a taxi from one to the other, but in the end we decided it would be more relaxing to spend the whole day at Cascais instead. Cascais is a beach resort 30 minutes from Lisbon on the train (€5 return). It has lots of beautiful sandy beaches, stunning historic mansions, beautiful parks and lots of restaurants. It has such a relaxed, chilled out vibe, I would love to go back and stay longer. My favourite part was finding a teeny tiny hidden beach tucked behind a stunning mansion. There were only four people on the beach and you could only reach it when the tide was out.

LX Factory

On our last day we visited the Estrela Basilica, and paid to go up onto the roof, which was amazing, but not for those scared of heights. After that we had a wander in the park and explored the quiet neighbourhood Estrela. Looking for somewhere for lunch we stumbled across the Mercado de Campo de Ourique. There were vegetables, meat and cheese for sale as well as stalls selling hot food. The food section was similar to the Time Out market but much more quiet and family friendly. My husband had steak and fries and I had huge salad.

After that we decided to walk to the LX Factory which is a little way out of the city centre. We did an awful lot of walking on our last day! I’d been trying to drag my husband to the LX Factory since the first day but he is very resistant to anything that sounds too trendy. We had a coffee then explored Ler Devagar which Is probably one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. For a bibliophile like my husband this definitely made the journey to the LX Factory worthwhile. The bookshop is built around a huge antique printing press, which printed the very first ever newspapers in Portugal. Currently on the printing press, which is about the size of a small house, there is an exhibition of kinetic art run by a charming and eccentric old man. He makes electric sculptures out of old bits of rubbish and delights in showing them to visitors. There was something so wonderfully absurd and charming about them that you couldn’t help but to grin from ear to ear.

After that we walked back to the Santos neighbourhood and had a beer in a rather smart bar overlooking the river next to the Museum of Antique Art and waited until it was time to call an Uber.

This painting inspired by the lovely old neighbourhood of Alfama is now available as print in my shop. 

How to Wear a Beret

So apparently the beret is back in fashion, which is news to me. Was it ever not in fashion?? Essentially I just want to be French and living in the 60s, which goes a long way to explaining my love of berets and Breton striped tops. I’ve been wearing a beret every winter as long as I can remember, but maybe for most people the beret has been an item best left in the fancy dress box? Well no more, the beret is here to stay for this winter at least. To me a beret is about looking artistic, quirky, a little bit french and most importantly keeping your ears warm. There are many ways to where the beret . Here are some of my favourites. 

What style do you go for? I'm a mix between the classic and back of the head. You can pick up a beret from Accessorize, Topshop, And Other Stories or La Redoute (for authentic french style), but be quick, they are selling out fast.

Peru Part 4: Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel

After leaving the Inkaterra Urubamba Hacienda  we travelled by taxi back to Ollantaytambo to catch the train to Machu Picchu. The train station in Ollantaytambo is charmingly old-fashioned and the cafe on the platform serves an excellent cup of coffee. It was busy in the cafe so we shared a table with an older Canadian gentleman with an excellent handle bar moustache, who shared a giant bag of Peruvian gooseberries with us. Once on the train the landscape changes from arable fields and purple snow topped mountains to the incredible green domed mountains so characteristic of Machu Picchu.

There are three ways to get to Machu Picchu, you can trek the Inca Trail which is a four day hike through the mountains, you can take the train which is what we did, or you can get a minibus to the hydroelectric station and then walk along the train tracks into town, which is the cheapest option. The town of Aquas Calientes is most people's final stop before reaching Machu Picchu. It is a small town in the mountains with a hot spring, which it is named after. It sounds quite nice on paper but in reality it's a total tourist trap. The buildings seem to have been thrown up with no consideration to design and there is scaffolding everywhere. It had started rained when we arrived, but the moment we stepped off the train the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel staff were there to meet us with umbrellas and to take our bags. As soon as you step onto the grounds of Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel you you are enveloped by dense jungle and an immediate sense of calm. It is such a perfect oasis away from the noise and hubbub of the main town. Inkaterra own 12 acres of unspoilt cloud forest, and the hotel is nestled right into the jungle. The hotel is made up of 83 traditional white adobe casitas and several main buildings, including a beautiful dining room. The rooms are simple and cosy, and you feel incredibly close to nature at all times. Just wondering around the casitas you can spot beautiful wild birds gliding between the trees.

I was given a tour of the grounds and then popped over to the main building for teatime, including teas grown right there in the hotel grounds. After that my husband and I decided to explore a bit and walk along the path into the cloud forest. Walking deeper and deeper into the jungle, marvelling at the wild orchids and humming birds everywhere, was such an incredible and unique experience. The hotel run a number of excursions in the cloud forest, with a focus on wildlife and conservation.

After our walk and a freshen up in our casita we made our way over to the dining room, where we had the best culinary experience of the whole time in Peru. My husband had an incredible tiradito, a traditional Peruvian dish of raw fish, and I had a traditional Amazonian river fish, washed down with a couple of Pisco sours. After that we got an early night so that we would be up bright and early for our trip up to Machu Picchu in the morning.

Fortunately the hotel serves breakfast from 5 am, which meant we could fill up with a delicious buffet breakfast before joining the queue for the bus. Even at 5:30 in the morning there was a long queue for the bus. The bus is about £20 each return and they are quite picky about what kind of debit card you can pay with, so I would recommend paying in cash. You can walk up, but it takes several hours so if you want to make most of your time I recommend just getting the bus. The bus takes you on an incredible journey winding up through the mountains, zig-zagging higher and higher until you reach the top. Once we got to the main gate we joined the queue with our tickets and passports ready. Fortunately the security guards didn’t notice that my husband had gotten my date of birth wrong when he booked our tickets, making me 117 years old.

We briefly joined the crowds taking obligatory Machu Picchu selfies and then made our way up to the Sun Gate. This was my favourite experience at Machu Picchu. The morning light was incredible as we walked up into the mountains to the Sun Gate, and at this point the trail was very quiet. The view was incredible from the top, and for people hiking the Inca Trail this is their first view of Machu Picchu.

You can’t bring your own food into Machu Picchu, so we had to go back out the main gate to buy food and drinks. You are allowed to enter through the gate three times in a day. As you would expect everything is a bit overpriced, and you even have to pay to use the toilets. We bought a couple of empanadas for lunch then headed back in. The citadel itself is amazing, but for the most part you can’t just roam freely, you need to walk round in a particular route following the many tour groups. One of my favourite parts was breaking away from the crowds managing to capture some shots of llamas looking dramatic against the magnificent backdrop as the mist started to descend.

At some point we got back on the main trail and realised everyone was heading towards the exit. The security guards wouldn’t let us turn back so we were herded out. We debated queueing up to get back in the main entrance again but it just started raining, so my husband and I decided to get the bus back into town for a coffee and some food before catching our train. We went back to Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel for coffees and they had our bags all ready for us, having stored them for us during the day. We had a a last moment soaking up the atmosphere of the hotel and the beauty of the cloud forest before catching a train to Cusco.

We stayed at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel free of charge, but all views and opinions ate my own. Thank you so much to Inkaterra for having us, we had an amazing stay.  

Instagram for Creatives Workshop

Last month I hosted my first ever Instagram for Creatives workshop. The aim was to share what I had learnt about using Instagram to grow my business with other creatives. I wanted the talk to be inspirational, but also packed full of useful information and advise the students could implement straight away. There was a big focus on not seeing Instagram as a popularity contest, but using it as a tool to grow your business and we started the workshop by defining and writing down our goals. It was such a lovely afternoon and I had such a nice bunch of women to talk to.

I am very pleased to announce I have a another Instagram for Creatives workshop coming up in January. You can book tickets here.

The workshop was hosted in a beautiful East London venue and refreshments were provided by My Little Cake Tin. My good friend Nancy came along on the day to help with a bit of styling and took the photos. I booked the space via Breather, get £45 off your first booking with the code BKA5JG. 

Flower Crown Workshop

A few weeks ago my good friend Migle, owner of Your London Florist invited me to a workshop at her brand-new studio in Crew Hill, North London. You might have seen me mention Your London Florist before as they did all my wedding flowers.

At the workshop we learnt how to construct floral crowns from scratch. It was a really interesting and technical class. We trimmed garden roses down to size then threaded florist's wire through the stem, criss-crossing the wires before pulling them down and wrapping them with florist's tape. Once we had a pile of trimmed, taped flowers we are ready to start constructing the crown. We bunched together the flowers and foliage then wrapped the wires with tape working round gradually until all the flowers were incorporated. We also added a few succulents with the help of a hot glue gun. The lovely florists then showed us how to measure it round our heads to create a loop and tape the whole thing in place. Doesn't it look amazing! The best thing is the class was so thorough and well taught that I would definitely feel confident making myself a flower crown from scratch again. There was such a lovely bunch of women at the workshop that night, including Katie from Oh Squirrel who it's always lovely to catch up with

All the beautiful photos  were taken by photographer Tia Talula. Find more details for the Flower School here.

Why it Doesn't Pay to Work for Free

Working for free has been a big issue for a long time in the illustration industry, but I really feel it's becoming a bit of a problem at the moment. You would assume that as you become more established and successful as an illustrator people would stop asking you to work for free in exchange for exposure, but what actually happens is you simply get bigger brands and clients asking for free work . The way I see it there are two types of clients that ask you to work for free. There are smaller clients that aren't making much money and assume that because they are working for free that you should too. This only works if you truly believe in what they're doing and actively want to collaborate. Just because their business isn't financially successful doesn't mean you should have to work for free as well.

The second type of client that asks you to work for free are the big businesses and well known brands. These clients are household names and they assume their reputation and influence means they  don't actually need to pay anybody creative. They can just pay you in exposure and you will happily work for free so that you can put the work in your portfolio and name them as a client on your website. Unfortunately this isn't really a good idea and too many illustrators fall for it. There have been times I've worked for free earlier in my career and regretted it.

Just to make it clear I'm not having a go at new illustrators that are currently doing work for free. I've done it myself, I know how tempting it can be! I just wanted to share my experiences with the benefit of hindsight. Also all the photos used in this post are of me doing paid work, not free work. I just thought a post without any photos would be very boring. 

Live illustration for SisterMAG

Maybe they'll like me if I work for free 

A client that asks you to work for free will never respect you. You might expect them to be extra nice to make up for the fact that they are not paying you, but actually these clients are usually the worst since they don't value you or your time. My experience has always been the better paid the job, the better you are treated by the client. This is particularly relevant when you're working at events, teaching workshops or doing live illustration. A client checking to see if you need anything or offering you a drink makes a big difference when you're working flat out for hours.

Live illustration for The Betty Collective

Maybe they'll pay me next time

I've fallen for that one before. The client has run out of budget this time but surely they'll pay me next time? The truth is that if you've agreed to work for free once, and you've done good work for the client, there is no reason why they would start paying you in the future. If having no budget worked out well for them last time why would they change it in the future? The exception to this is small independent magazines who sometimes will start paying contributors as they grow.

Running a workshop for Pinterest

But it would be great exposure

Generally my feeling is a company too small to be able to afford to pay you won't be able to offer much exposure, and a company big enough to offer huge amounts of exposure should be making enough money to pay you properly. Free work only leads to more free work. The best exposure that I have received has been as a result of paying work. Additionally a lot of the brands that contact me and offer me exposure have less followers on social media than I do!

Live illustration for Betty Magazine

But I don't need to make money from my illustrations I'm just doing it for fun

That's your choice, but ultimately it's bad for the industry. If clients can always find somebody to do the work for free they will keep asking for free work and keep allocating zero budget to illustration. There have been times when I have given a client a quote and they have come back to me saying 'this person is willing to do it for free, why can't you'? When you agree to work for free it's not always apparent the knock on affect you have on other people.

Running a workshop for Etsy

Is it ever okay to work for free? In certain circumstances yes, for  example for family, charity or causes that you really believe in. There are also some occasions when you can offer to work for free and make a calculated decision about how it will benefit you. For example the first time I ever did live illustration over two years ago at The Bloggers Market I offered live portraits for free in exchange for a tweet or Instagram. This was completely my decision and I wasn't pressured into it, also it wasn't a big business, it was run by girls my age. I had never done live illustration before and I didn't feel that I could charge a client for it until I knew I could actually do the job. The event went really well and it was so popular that it attracted the attention of the venue (The Hoxton Hotel) who immediately booked me for several of their upcoming parties (paid) and corporate events, which then lead to even more paid work live illustrating.

What do you do if a company asks you to work for free? You can politely explain why you don't work for free or you can just not reply at all. If you'd like to work with them in the future I would recommend sending back a polite email, but otherwise don't give it anymore of your time. 

What do you think? Would you work for free? Have you worked for free and regretted it?

Pass It On with Pink Lady® Apples

A little while ago Pink Lady® Apples got in touch with me to ask if I wanted to take part in their Pass It On campaign. The idea was for a group of bloggers with different specialities to pass on their skills and expertise to each other. I love the chance to try some something new so I was very happy to sign up. I put together a kit of lovely watercolour supplies and a simple tutorial for Laura of Wholeheartedly Healthy (I can't wait to see how she gets on) and I received a surprise package in the post from Sarah of Temporary Secretary.

I received the most lovely package from Sarah. The skill that she had chosen for me to learn was nail art, and she included a selection of nail varnishes and all the tools I needed to get started. She also included lots of lovely bath and skin products, so that I could have a bit of a pamper and relaxation session.

The last time I had a go doing a bit of nail art was back when I was in university, using the wrong end of a paintbrush to make dots on my nails. This time round it was much easier with the proper tools, instructions from Sarah and a whole Pinterest board full of inspiration. I decided to keep it really simple and just use the dot tool rather than the brushes. I'm not that good using my left hand, so I decided to keep my first attempt really easy so they wouldn't be too much of a difference between my left and right hand. It was so much fun to take the time to sit down and do a bit of nail art, waiting patiently for each layer to dry. I'm usually one of those people who is always in a rush and tries to paint their nails 15 minutes before they leave the house and then smudges it on the way out. I've got to say I had a lot of fun trying out the nail art, and every time I look at my nails they just make me smile.

It was also lovely to have a bath and a bit of a pamper session. Baths are one of my favourite things, I think they're probably one of the only times when I'm truly relaxed. Is there anything better than having a bath and putting a podcast on? The kit included some bubble bath, shower gel, body scrub and moisturiser. My favourite is this range from Champneys which says 'a well earned a treat' on top. I love anything handwritten or brush lettered. I've been working very hard recently writing my book  and it's all been pretty non-stop. I have been doing my best not to work 24/7 and to look after myself mentally and physically. I'm honestly a bit of a workaholic, But it's important to remember that the times when I feel like skimping on 'self care' are the times I need it the most. Anyway it was certainly nice to have an excuse to climb into a nice hot bubble bath and forget about work for 40 minutes.

This post has been brought to you in association with Pink Lady® Apples as part of their Pass It On campaign.

Writing a Watercolour Book!!

I announced over on my Instagram and I forgot to share the news on here: I am writing a book!! Last summer I had an idea for a book. I realised that most watercolour books are very old-fashioned and very traditional, and I wanted to write something modern fun and accessible. I got in touch with my friend Lesley who helped me write a book proposal, which ended up being a whopping 23 pages long, and presented to some publishers. In the New Year I got offered a book deal and I am spending this summer writing the book. I am used to having ideas for illustrations in my head then making them happen on paper, but having an idea for a book then turning it into a real book deal with the big publisher is something completely new. It's just crazy that this project went from dream to reality. I am loving the process of writing this book. I am just having so much fun coming up with projects for it. The publishers have given me a lot of freedom to choose what I want to teach in the book which has been brilliant. I love teaching people to paint and encouraging them to find their creativity, so it's really exciting to be able to do that on a much wider scale due to this book. I would describe this book as everything I know and love about watercolours. It's for people who want to paint colourful, joyful things to put on their wall and not take it all too seriously. At this point I have just passed the halfway mark and I've handed the first half of my manuscript to the publishers. I can't believe I've written a half a book already. I've got just over a month to finish the second half. My book will be coming out next summer. Follow me over on Instagram for sneak peeks of my progress.

Day Out with Weekend:IN

A few weeks ago I was invited to a special event out in the Somerset countryside. A chance to spend a creative day in a beautiful location with some inspiring women? Sign me up.

Event was hosted by Olivia Tripp, founder of Weekend:IN, whose aim is to bring influences and independent brands together. The day started with a flat lay styling challenge with brands Seven Boot Lane, Hammam Havlu and Beija London. I somehow ended up standing on the table to get that perfect shot.

After a delicious lunch outside we made pom-pom festival headdresses with Ollie Quinn. It turns out Ollie Quinn and I had been wanting to work with each other for a while, so it was great to finally meet. I'm picking up a pair of prescription sunglasses from them this week which I'm really excited about. 

After a mini pom-pom headdress and sunglasses photoshoot we headed back inside to have a bit of a chillout session with Yawn. Yawn produce beautiful, ethically made pyjamas in the most stunning original prints. Their motto is 'kettle on, phone off, pyjama time' so we all put on a gifted pair of pyjamas, switched off our phones and settled down to play some games. It turns out bloggers are pretty competitive, Nancy been the most competitive of all! It was such a lovely way to chill out for an hour or so. 

After that we put our normal clothes back on, grabbed some snacks for the train and headed home back to London. It was such a lovely day and I'm really excited about working with some of the brands from the event. Thank you Olivia for putting on such a wonderful event, and thank you Sophie for taking such amazing photos.

All photos in this blog were taken by Sophie Carefull. Stunning flowers by Wilderness Flowers

Peru Part 3 - Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba

Arriving

As you step into   Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba there is an immediate wow factor. This gorgeous hotel is nestled at the foot of a mountain with stunning panoramic views of the Andes, which the hotel takes full advantage of with floor-to-ceiling windows. It has possibly the most impressive hotel lobby in the world. When we arrived we were given a glass of Chicha Morada, a traditional drink made from purple maize and then we were shown to our room. The hotel has 24 casitas dotted along the hillside and 12 rooms in the main building. Our room was a private casita, which was bigger than our flat back in London.  It had stunning views of the mountains, comfortable beds, sofas and a well appointed bathroom. The thing I love most about this hotel is the attention to detail. The keyring for the room key is made of plaited naturally dyed yarn, the room is decorated with traditional rugs and blankets sourced from Chinchero and even the bottle of water has a woven cover. After settling in we headed over to the main building to claim our free Pisco Sours. The bartenders were lovely and gave us a mini lesson on making the perfect Pisco Sour and gave us some useful advice for Machu Picchu.

Tea Time

My favourite feature of this hotel is the teatime, which happens every day from 3 to 5 pm. I think every hotel should have teatime, in fact I think every day should involve teatime. A hot water urn and a selection of local herbs were set out in the lobby and guests could make their own infusions and help themselves to a selection of delicate biscuits infused with local flavours. I had a blend of wild growing mint, and my husband had a coca tea, which is believed to help with the altitude. If you need a little extra help adjusting to the altitude the hotel has oxygen tanks on hand.

Dinner Time

The hotel offers a number of free nature walks and excursions. Before dinner we went out for the Twilight walk. We each grabbed a candlelit lantern and headed up the mountainside lead by our guide. As the stars came out he explained that this valley was sacred because the flow of the Milky Way mirrored the flow of the river. We learnt the Incan constellations, so different from those we can see back in England and he explained the Incan theological hierarchy. This was such a wonderful insight into the traditional culture, and such a beautiful experience.

After we got back it was time for dinner. I don't have pictures of what we ate because there's nothing worse than somebody getting out a digital SLR and standing on a chair to get the right angle, but needless to say everything was delicious. When we got back to our room a fire had been lit (it gets chilly at night in the mountains) and a chocolate left on each pillow.

I think breakfast might be my favourite meal in the hotel; I had quinoa at pancakes and my husband had Peruvian style eggs, all made to order, with an array of fresh juices, smoothies, fruit salads, cold meats and cheeses available on the buffet. I know I've said it before, but the thing I love most about this hotel is the incredible attention to detail. Everything is thought out and on brand. In the dining room there are beautiful chairs covered in traditional textiles from Chinchero, the plates and bowls perfectly match the decor and even the placemat is woven. We were very sad to leave this beautiful place, but we needed to head onto the next leg of our journey to Machu Picchu.

We stayed at Inkaterra free of charge, but all views and opinions are my own. Thank you so much to Inkaterra for having us, we had an amazing stay.

Joules x New Designers

Last week the team at Joules invited myself and my fellow blogging buddy Nancy to afternoon tea and a chance to explore New Designers. New Designers is one of the most important design events in the UK, offering design graduates a chance to showcase their work to the creative industries. For the first time Joules sponsored an award at New Designers; one lucky graduate won a cash price, a paid placement and a paid assignment to create a mural for their pop up store in Wells-next-the-Sea. Joules were looking for someone with a good understanding of colour and print, with eye catching, fresh designs that also have comerical apeal.

The winner was Chloe Hills, who studied Textile Design for Fashion & Interiors at Bath Spa University. Her winning piece was designed to create the feel of an overgrown jungle, with prints created large scale to maximise impact.  I got in touch with her to ask her a few questions about what inspires her and how she created her final piece. 

The theme of my hand painted wallpaper piece was Dark Florals & Foliage, giving it a slight twist by adding a pop of accent colour, to this very moody theme and creating over-sized imagery. What inspired my final wallpaper, 'Love-Lies Bleeding' was  my collections of floral imagery that I gathered over the summer from RHS Hampton Court Flower Show, RHS Wisley Gardens, and from trips up and down the country visiting many gardens.  I wanted to combine a contemporary feel with a very traditional theme using abstract shapes and a sophisticated colour palette. 

I decided to hand paint this piece because I wanted to be more hands on with the design as a final piece and my aim throughout was to make an immediate visual impact which I felt the hand painted finish would do, as sometimes a design can get lost within a digital print for example. For me , It was also about getting the colours right which was something that I felt I had control over which was key. There is something unique too about it being hand painted, as it is it a one off piece. Plus it is exciting and I enjoyed doing it! 

I am always on the look out for colour combinations. Colour inspires me greatly especially unusual and unexpected combinations when it comes to a new and exciting project the first thing I do it seek out on trend colour schemes. I like to revitalise a palette and think carefully about my proportions of colour. Inspiration comes from plants, gardens, natural sources, scenery and also architectural features from my surroundings.  

What really surprised me about the exhibition was the high quality of work and the professional presentation. I was worried I was going to see the same old things again (I think we've all had enough of pineapples prints) I was really impressed by the fresh approach and unique ideas of the students. Here are a few of my favourite trends.

Monochrome Textures

You could see the influence of Scandinavian minimalism in some student's work, with the use of cool greys and interesting textures. These textiles are perfect for modern interiors. Jane Woolley creates beautifully tactile throws and cushions using natural fibres. Chloe Scott uses lino printing to create her cushions and textiles, and Isabel Cross brings her limited colour palette to life with touches of gold.

Jane Woolley

Chloe Scott

Isobel Cross

Painterly Detail

Painterly detail was a huge trend, whether it was loose water colours or detailed gouache paintings. Tana Pither's stunning work is painted with gouache and inspired by botanical illustration and old photos of the East African coast. She has had placements at House of Hackney and Timorous Beasties, and you can feel the influence of that in her work. 

Tana Pither

Tana Pither

Natalie Percival creates beautiful textiles with her loose watercolours, inspired by the rugged scenery of Norway and the rolling hills of Surrey.  Matthew Hodges work is simply delightful, inspired by the flora and fauna of British summer time and a love of colours. 

Charlotte Atkins bought a fresh approach to tropical prints, with bold brushstrokes, a monochrome palette and sheer fabrics. 

Charlotte Atkin - Matthew Hodges

Pastel Geometrics

Nadia Aggoun's work mixes the geometric with the botanicals in soft pastels shades. Her work reminds me of the patterns found in geometric tiles.

Nadia Aggoun

Quirky Details

Isla Rustrick and Lizzie Porter stood out for their quirky details and hand drawn approach to textile design. Isla Rustrick was inspired by OAP style icon Iris Apfel and her work involves screen printed illustrations and knitted details. Lizzie Porter's work also includes niave hand drawn details and embellishment. 

Isla Rustrick - Lizzie Porter

The thing that really surprised was the lack of online presence these graduates had. Often the graduates didn't have a website at all, or they had a free website that was difficult to use. New Designers is such a wonderful platform, and it's a shame that the online presence of these graduates didn't match up to their incredible work. You don't need anything complicated, it's so important that the website is easy to use, easy to find, and people can contact you. If not you don't know what work you might be missing out on. You can read some of my top tips for graduates here.

This post was created in association with Joules, but all words and thoughts are my own.

Peru Part 2 - The Sacred Valley

We arrived in Cusco airport and got a taxi into town to buy our Boleto Turistico, a ticket that gets you into many of the ruins and museums across the Sacred Valley. You can pay for them individually, but the Boleto Turistico is much cheaper.  It is valid for 10 days and you get a stamp for every site you visit. We then got a collectivo to the Incan village of Ollantaytambo. Collectivos, also known as combis, are shared minibus taxis, and are a cheap convenient way to get around. They leave when they are full and passengers get on and off along the route. It was a two hour journey through the Sacred Valley to our destination, but the route was stunning as we slowly descended through the mountains.

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is a unique intact Incan Village, and is often people's last stop before reaching Machu Picchu. This can give the place a bit of a backpacker vibe, but instead of just passing through, we decided to stay there for four nights. It is referred to as a living Inca Village, because the traditional Incan streets are intact and it is still inhabited by the indigenous  Quechua speaking community. The people living here in Ollantaytambo today are the direct descendants of the people who built the town.

On our first day we explored the ruins of Ollantaytambo. We went slightly off the tourist trail and found a path that led us right up the side of a mountain, leaving the tour groups far behind. The route we took gave us a spectacular view of the valley and the low-lying clouds. We then climbed up to the granaries on the opposite mountain. These mysterious sloping buildings look like churches, perched on the inhospitable hillside, but they are in fact store houses that were used by the Incas to store grains.  

Moray and Maras

The next day we decided to visit some of the local sites with a driver, as recommended by our hostel. We visited Moray, Maras, Salinas de Maras and Chinchero in one day for the cost of about £40, plus tip. The mysterious circular terraces of Moray look like an amphitheatre, but it is believed they were actually used as an agricultural laboratory. As the different levels of the terraces receive different amounts of wind and sun, it allowed them to see which crops grow best in different weather conditions.

We also visited the salt flats at Maras. You can wander around the extensive salt mines on a network of wooden bridges. Warm salty water drips constantly between the hundreds of salt ponds. Salt has been mined here since pre-Incan times. Naturally salty water emerges from an underground spring and evaporates in the sun leaving pools of white crystals behind.

The town of Maras its self is very small and very quiet and has an unusual and slightly eerie atmosphere. Our driver took us on a route from Maras to Chinchero via the back roads, which in the winter are completely impassible. This was a wonderful opportunity to see the unspoiled Peruvian landscape. You see whole families working in the fields growing traditional crops like corn and wheat, the way they have done for hundreds of years. At one point we had to make an emergency stop as a herd of piglets ran across the dirt track. The scenery is stunning, with golden green fields of wheat and dramatic snow topped mountains.

Chinchero

The little town of Chinchero is famous for its traditional weaving community, and was one of my favourite places in Peru. The Incans knew it as the birth place as the rainbow, and it certainly produces a lot of colour and beauty.  At over 12,000 feet it was the highest altitude we experienced, I must have been an alpaca in a past life because I was completely impervious to the altitude. We later met people who had gotten serious altitude sickness from visiting this village. There are numerous collectives of weaving families who sell their wares together and give demonstrations of the traditional processes. The alpaca wool is washed and spun by hand before being dyed with natural organic dyes. Purple corn, lichen and cochineal are used frequently. The women demonstrated how the shade of red produced by the cochineal can be changed by adding ingredients like salt or lime juice. The finished yarn is then woven to create beautiful textiles used in traditional dress and homewares. The weaving process is elaborate and lengthy, and the traditional designs incorporate many symbols of Peruvian nature, such as pumas, lizards, rivers and mountains. The most expensive textiles are those finely woven with alpaca wool; they are very detailed and are often used in clothing. The dense weave keeps out the rain and different towns have different traditional designs. My favourite type of traditional Peruvian textile is the Frazada, which means blanket in Spanish. They are made in two halves and then sewn together. These are a chunkier, heavier textile and quicker to weave, which is why they are less expensive. They are used as rugs and blankets are and cut up to make backpacks and cushion covers. In the square in front of the white washed church of Chincero,  women in traditional dress sell their colourful textiles. This open air market backs onto the Chinchero ruins.

Pisac 

Pisac is famous for its market, and is busiest on the main market days when tourists pour into the town from a fleet of coaches. The market is a colourful maze spread over the cobbled town square, and sells everything from the most beautiful textiles to the tackiest tourist tat. A lot of the goods are mass produced and there is more of a hard sell here, which is why I prefer shopping in Chinchero. After wandering through the market we decided to head up to the ruins. These were our favourite ruins; they were a challenging walk with spectacular views and Inca terraces and fortresses dotted all over the mountain. We had the trail almost completely to ourselves. At the top of the mountain we met a tiny little old lady selling bottles of water from a huge bag on her back.

Where to Eat

As a pair of jet lagged coffee snobs it's always important to us that we find a good local cafe. Our favourite in Ollantaytambo was Cafe de mi Abuelo. The coffee was good, the staff are friendly, the top floor has an amazing view over the mountains, and they have great home-made alfajores. Also they have a daily happy hour, which means you get two Pisco sours for around £4, which is exactly what you need after a tiring day of walking up mountains. On our last day we discovered Cafe Mayu, which is right next to the platform in the train station and has excellent coffee. It is attached to El Albergue restaurant and B&B. Uchucuta was our favourite restaurant, and did an excellent alpaca steak with red quinoa and Andean sauce. We also visited Hearts Cafe regularly, a casual cafe and restaurant whose profits all go to local community work. The Living Heart charity does lots of fantastic work in the local community, and I am proud to support them with the sale of this print.

The Sacred Valley is a magical place with truly unique people. Stay tuned for part three and four where we spend a night in the Urubamba Valley at Inkaterra and then venture on to Machu Picchu.

How to Paint a Chair

Family Heirloom

A couple of years ago my granny decided to buy some comfier furniture and gave me a 1920s chair she no longer had room for. It's somewhere in between a dining chair and an armchair, it's probably what you would call a cocktail chair, though I have yet to drink a cocktail sitting in it. It was originally bought for my aunt as an engagement present from an antiques fair in Alexandra Palace. It's been passed about the family a fair bit and now ended up with me. It is a beautiful chair and still in great condition, but after a 100 years of people sitting on it, the light cream fabric was looking rather grubby. I booked a free consultation to see how much it would cost to have it professionally reupholstered. The lady who did the consultation was absolutely lovely, and quite accurately guessed from my flat full of IKEA furniture that £900 was a little bit more than I was willing to spend on one chair. Thus I began to do some research on a cheaper alternative and stumbled across the idea of painting the chair, which sounds like the kind of thing they would do on the Great Interior Design Challenge. Given that I was never going to spend £900 to have it reupholstered and it was only going to get more grubby as time went on I decided to have a go painting it.

A Quick Fix

I bought two cans of fabric spray paint from Simply Spray in Hunter Green. I was also very tempted by the coral, but I decided the dark green was a more versatile colour and would cover up the discolouration on the fabric better.

I covered the wooden legs in masking tape and my husband carried the chair down to the garden where we gave it its first coat of paint. The cans are really easy to use, just point and spray. The key is to cover it from all angles and keep the spray nice and even. It was dry to the touch after an hour or so. After a few days we dragged it back outside for coat number two, which made the colour richer and deeper and generally gave the impression of it being a green chair, rather than a beige chair that had been spray painted green. 

The Final Result

All in all I'm really happy with the results. It was cheap and easy to do and it looks great. The fabric is a little bit less soft them before but it is a very firm chair made with horsehair, not a soft squishy chair you would lounge about in, so it doesn't make much difference. 

I love how it looks next to my umbrella plant and styled with my Peruvian cushion. The green and botanical theme continues with the botanical style prints that I've painted to go above the chair. This is the perfect spot for a cup of tea and a bit of reading/Instagram checking.

If you've got an old piece of furniture in need of a makeover, or you've spotted a piece at the charity shop with potential, I definitely recommend using this process. Let me know what you think in the comments. Would you ever spray paint your furniture?

Peru Part 1 - Arequipa

Lima

After flying into Lima and staying one night we arrived in Arequipa. Arequipa is Peru's second largest city, but its compact Colonial centre makes it easily walkable. Uniquely among the cities of Peru, Arequipa has never been an Inca settlement and was founded in the 16th century by the Spanish. We decided to start our Peru journey in Arequipa as it is around 2500 meters above sea level, which is the perfect place to acclimatise to the high altitude. It's also a stunning city that deserves a few days to explore and appreciate. 

Arriving in Arequipa

Arequipa is surrounded on all sides by three majestic volcanoes, which means the city operates with two distinct climates. Before the sun rises over the mountains it is freezing cold and after it is pleasantly warm. We stayed in Casa de Melgar, which turned out to be a brilliant choice. This hotel was once a colonial mansion. The rooms are set around colourful plant filled courtyards and are complete with antique furniture and embroidered wallhangings. It was also only a five minute walk from the Plaza de Armas, the centre of community life in any Latin American town.

Visiting the Monasteries 

The Santa Catalina Monastery is like a city within a city, built in the 16th century and painted with striking natural pigments. The monastery covers over 20,000 square meters and has its own streets named after cities in Spain. Twenty nuns still live there today. The monastery has an incredibly peaceful atmosphere. Whilst it is a beautiful building to explore on your own, the way to get the most out of it is to have a guided tour. For example a small dark room took on new meaning when the guide explained that this is where the secluded nuns would speak through the grill to their family living in the outside world. 

We also visited the Santa Teresa Monastery, which is much smaller and less well-known but definitely worth a visit. It houses a stunning collection of art from the Cusco School. Before coming to Peru I had never heard of the Cusco school, it is a fusion of traditional Catholic devotional paintings with a Latin American influence. It is characterised by decorative floral detail, embellishment in gold and the rosy cheeks of the subjects. The monastery is home to one the most stunningly beautiful rooms I think I have ever been in. The walls are covered in pale pink and green frescoes from floor to ceiling; hand-painted hundreds of years ago and carefully restored and maintained. 

The Countryside

We took an excursion out to the countryside for one day. Neither of us drive so we used a local bus tour company. It was a four hour tour and worked out to be good value and was a great way to see the countryside. One of my favourite places that we stopped at was the Mansion Fundador, a colonial mansion in the countryside once owned by the founder of Arequipa and subsequently his insane son. Like so many buildings in Arequipa it is painted in vibrant colours and furnished with beautiful antique furniture. We also visited the Old Mill at Sabandia, which was a particularly charming and tranquil spot

Where to Eat

Arequipa gave us a great introduction to Peruvian food and was very good value. Our favourite restaurant was Pishku, which had a beautiful courtyard and served the best ceviche I had all trip. I became a bit obsessed with the sandwich chain La Lucha. We went there for lunch in Lima and then again in Arequipa, and I am still dreaming about those sandwiches. We had marinated pork (Chic Charron) with sweet potato and red onion on chunky, crispy rolls. The staff were some of the friendliest and most attentive we met in Peru and the sandwiches were amazing value.

We discovered Chaqchao chocolate cafe on our last night and wished we'd found it sooner. As you would expect it makes amazing hot chocolate as well as a selection of craft beer and chocolatey treats. Alfajores are not uniquely Peruvian, but they are delicious and they are sold everywhere in Arequipa, particularly in the Plaza de Armas. They are round crumbly shortbread biscuits filled with dulce de leche and dusted with icing sugar. Peru is known for growing coffee but not for making it. More than once we bought a takeaway coffee so bad we had to throw it away. Fortunately we found Kaffee Haus right opposite our hotel and during our four day stay managed to fill up a loyalty card and claim a free coffee. They roast and grind Peruvian beans in house and make delicious coffee.

Stay tuned for part two to read about our travels to the Sacred Valley.